Guided by the Light: Top 10 Hidden Gems of Puerto Rico's Best Kept Secret, Vieques
Sunrise on Playa Navio.
It takes all of four hours for my crush on Vieques to evolve into full-on infatuation.
As my friends and I wander the Esperanza malecon, a timeless stretch of local haunts with names like Duffy’s, Bananas, and Lazy Jacks, we gravitate toward the beach to witness an epic magenta sunset. Hues of amber emerging from the streetlights, however, seal the deal and steal my heart. As we quip that we uncovered the Caribbean's “Red Light District,” the reason behind the island’s rouge tone reveals an awe-inspiring explanation: A universal commitment to the survival of sea turtles.
Now, it’s true love. Not only does Vieques flaunt the beauty of an island treasure reminiscent of a tropical oasis movie set, but its residents have prioritized the wellbeing of their endangered marine co-inhabitants. In fact, we soon learn that Puerto Rico is a haven for green sea turtles, leatherback turtles, and hawksbill turtles, with over 60,000 born on its beaches every year. So, how does this connect to the red lights?
“Turtle Power!” The red lights of Vieques illuminate Esperanza Pier.
As our luck would have it, our rental home’s manager, Kelly Thompson, happens to be the publisher of the island’s leading magazine, Vieques Insider, in addition to an expert on the subject since joining a group of marine biologists during turtle nesting season. Kelly, whose warmth and bright, contagious smile resemble Katie Couric, has a magnetic passion for uncovering everything fun and interesting on this island that is double the size of Manhattan. Hailing from upstate New York, Kelly ended up here on a whim; after helping a friend move, she decided to stick around. She met her now partner, Cheo, soon after, and 20 years later, with the wonder of a first time visitor, she continues to explore alongside their 13-year-old daughter.
Kelly explains that the sea turtle hatchlings are attracted to the brightest nearby lights. In optimal conditions, the moon would lead them safely toward the ocean. However, if they get disoriented by the glow of street lights, they can be led to dangerous conditions inland. Red lights have the least amount of energy in the visible light spectrum, mitigating the threat to hatchlings and keeping our precious chelonian friends thriving.
Vieques offers community in a way I have never before experienced in my travels. It’s large enough to boast endless natural wonders, including black sand beaches and thousands of horses roaming its dirt roads without a traffic signal in sight, yet intimate enough to become friends with the person seated next to you at a café. Amy Gordon, a former NYC marketing executive who relocated to Vieques to pursue her passion of travel writing, said it perfectly during El Plaza’s weekly spoken word open mic: “I love being in a place where pretension is (almost) non-existent. I love going into restaurants and being greeted by name, and often with a hug. I love knowing that the bioluminescent bay is explainable by science but still feels like absolute magic. I love being around people who have chosen to follow their dreams.”
You come to recognize people here, and they invite you into their world with open arms. If you chose to make the journey, you will be rewarded with an unbelievably loyal and proud island family. After extensively hiking and eating my way through the island, here are 10 hidden gems to unveil your inner red street light and serve as a compass to savor this stunning national wildlife refuge. Every Viequense can relate to the simultaneous desire to share and protect these treasured spots. If I had a nickel for every time a local jested, “You love it here? Great! Now tell everyone how awful it was…” Alas, I’m happy to “pay it forward” and share these “awful” gems:
See the Sights
Another postcard perfect sunset at Playa El Cocal, featuring palm tree swings and some of the island’s best views. Photo by AJ Stetson.
1. PLAYA EL COCAL, PLAYA NEGRA, & PLAYA NAVIO
The moment you touch down on the island, run--don’t walk!--to three of my favorite beaches, and you will instantly understand what makes this place so special. It’s very possible you will have the beach to yourself, even during the most epic sunrise and sunset hours if you can “swing” it. (Literally! Look for the palm tree swing along Playa el Cocal for the best sunset experience imaginable.) Both beaches can be accessed by foot through walking trails off 997, and Playa Negra’s famous black sand, originating from volcanic minerals, is even rumored to be magnetic! If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, check out Playa Navio, a short drive east of Esperanza, which features hidden caves, and some of the island’s best snorkeling.
Mosquito Bay unveiling nature’s nightlight. Photo by Travel Curator.
2. BIOLUMINESCENT BAY
Looking for the best time to visit Vieques? Turn to the lunar calendar and gravitate toward the monthly new moon– a worthwhile effort when you’re surrounded by one of the world’s most radiant bioluminescent bays. The island’s Mosquito Bay, one of Condé Nast’s Seven Wonders of the World, is uniquely positioned to contain calm currents while surrounded by mangrove trees to feed the 160,000 microscopic dinoflagellates per liter of water. The result? A front row seat to a surreal blue lightshow illuminated upon contact. Treat yourself to a glass-bottomed kayak tour through Taino Aqua Adventures, and you will experience millions of underwater “shooting stars” with a tour guide who can teach you the science behind these miraculous phytoplankton.
3. HORSEBACK RIDE ALONG PLAYA NEGRA
Just when I think I’ve mastered the tour of Vieques’ Corona ad-worthy beaches, the entire experience becomes literally elevated by a sunrise horseback excursion. Sailh’s Paradise Horse Riding offers eco tours that not only impressed us with their family-run farm and local expertise, but we appreciated their commitment to rescue horses and donkeys who became fast friends as we were invited to stick around and meet the entire extended family. It’s worth reserving a sunrise/sunset tour, and an added perk is you don’t have to worry about high tide when you have a vertical boost included! Bonus: If you’re looking to extend the adrenaline rush, drive down the street to Vieques Buggy Adventures for a 4x4 dune buggy experience through the rolling hills of their stunning 100 acre property.
4. SUNRISE HIKE @ MONTE PIRATA, PUNTA ARENAS
Full disclosure: I am not a morning person, especially on vacation. Odds are if I am up at 4:30 AM it’s due to a wild night out opposed to a pre-dawn workout. But when Kelly invites you to kick off your trip with a sunrise hike up Vieques’ highest point, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” Not only does the nearly 1,000 foot elevation gain provide an effective leg workout, but we are also rewarded at the summit with 360-degree views of all of Vieques and the surrounding islands. Ticatove, Vieques’ community conservation group, just completed construction on an observation platform, and we are even joined on the uphill trek by several dozen horses volunteering as cheerleaders while enjoying a leafy breakfast. Once you return to your car at the base, continue to explore the most remote part of the island by heading west to Playa Punta Arenas. This scenic beach takes remote to a new level, positioned at the northwest tip of the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, the Caribbean’s largest and most ecologically diverse. As you head back east, stop by the sacred 300+-year-old Ceiba Tree and enjoy the mile journey down Mosquito Pier to feel like you’re at the end of the world surrounded by turquoise Caribbean magic.
Grab a Bite
Enjoying a flight of Crab Island’s famed rum cocktails
5. CRAB ISLAND RUM DISTILLERY
A quick glance at any menu will undoubtedly showcase tropical libations with a common theme: Rum. Delicious, local, melt-in-your-mouth rum. Puerto Rico is known to be the rum capital of the world, and Vieques is the proud home of Crab Island, the first handcrafted distillery on the island. Thanks to copious sugar cane harvesting “rooted” in Vieques’ DNA, their rum game is no joke, and Crab Island’s euphoric property instantly unlocked peak tranquility. Located minutes from the airport, Crab Island quickly became our coveted welcome/bon voyage spot (as if one needs a literal flight as an excuse for a rum flight...). Open Thursday through Saturday, there’s no better way to kick off the weekend than a tasting of their innovative rums, including their famous “Tres Años” aged variety, alongside fresh infusions like orange and my personal favorite, coffee. Hot tip: The island’s best fish tacos can be found at the food truck next to the bar. A stacked fish taco + rumchata espresso martini + sunset = Vieques at its best!
The bright, welcoming atmosphere at Duffy’s. Photo courtesy of Duffy’s Esperanza.
6. BAR-HOPPING ESPERANZA - DUFFY’S, LAZY JACKS, & ROBIN’S
They say bartenders are glorified therapists with a side of mixology, and after hitting a couple of bars along the famed Esperanza strip, you’ll realize the hospitality workers who comprise the soul of this island don’t disappoint! The cast of characters attracted to Vieques are among the most interesting and personable I’ve come across during my travels. In fact, it’s a true rite of passage to run into your favorite bartender at the beach or a major event. (This happens to me as I scan the room at the Vieques Voices open mic night to find that I shared a laugh and absorbed local tips from a good portion of the crowd). Opposed to other island destinations where limited restaurants demand a headache of arrangements weeks in advance, my favorite Vieques nights involve no plan, no dinner reservation, and a wander along the boardwalk to see what beckons. Duffy’s stands out for their quality cocktails, delicious seafood, and tropical neighborhood “Cheers” vibe. Lazy Jacks easily evolves from a quick happy hour drink to a memorable destination in itself. And for mojito enthusiasts, Robin’s is located just past the strip and delivers the best minty-fresh concoctions, accompanied by mouth-watering burgers.
El Quenepo’s namesake floral tree welcomes guests to the island’s most gourmet culinary experience. Photo courtesy El Quenepo.
7. EL QUENEPO
In the heart of the Esperanza Strip, El Quenepo presents a stunning culinary experience in a category of its own and stands out as one of my favorite restaurants in the Caribbean. The open-air dining room welcomes guests with a bright pink floral Quenepo tree (the fruit of which is featured in a weekly cocktail!). Sipping on a smoked rum old-fashioned transports you to a bygone era that simultaneously resembles your most stylish friend’s living room. This is the type of place where you go for a special occasion, or wander in minutes before closing, drenched in damp kayaking gear, craving a late night cocktail--and they will gladly welcome you. The “mariscada martini” ceviche and monkfish osso buco with Irish langoustines were standout crowd favorites. Dessert was equally epic, and I still think about the transcendental moment I shared with the ponche brulée and the chocolate truffle torte.
Spend the Night
Photos courtesy of AJStetson.com, Casa de Colores, and epanderson.com
8. CASA DE COLORES
It’s no coincidence that Kelly and her husband, Cheo, two of the most vibrant and fun-loving people I have met, happen to manage the island’s most colorful rental property. Casa de Colores lives up to its name, featuring three levels of yellow, coral, and Caribbean blue accented luxury accommodations surrounding a lush tropical courtyard pool. Perched on a hill in the center of the island minutes from the heart of Esperanza and Isabel Segunda, the rooftop deck unveils sweeping vistas to enjoy a sunrise salutation, sunset sangria, and spontaneous stargazing. Each of the 5 bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms is uniquely positioned throughout the property to offer the best of both worlds: The privacy of luxury resort casitas with the stunning landscape and flow of an exclusive Caribbean compound. Kelly and Cheo go above and beyond to accommodate guests with a level of service and responsiveness second to none. Some of my favorite island memories involve lounging with friends in the exfoliating saltwater pool, rum beverage in tow as the flamingo floaties infuse us with laughter and levity.
9. FINCA VICTORIA
I first learned about La Finca from a Puerto Rican friend who insisted that I spend as much time as possible at this farmhouse bed and breakfast yoga/retreat center. Minutes after our vinyasa flow class, my friends and I agree that owner/founder/yoga instructor Sylvia de Marco leads the best yoga class we have ever experienced. Sylvia is a true “Jill of All Trades” and also happens to be a former movie set designer-turned-hotelier who opened San Juan’s renowned Dreamcatcher and La Botánica hotels. Upon discovering La Finca during a location scouting trip, she was called to the property and never looked back. This holistic haven offers an ayurvedic kitchen with fresh ingredients from its own farm, a rotating vegan chef serving meals at the idyllic communal dining table, and rooms with their own herb gardens. Come for the Sunday yoga, stay for the brunch, and be sure to browse their shop featuring bohemian threads, art, and jewelry from local Puerto Rican businesses, including essential oils concocted on-property.
10. EL BLOK HOTEL
As a contemporary architecture fanatic, I am astonished by Vieques’ very own American Institute of Architects award-winning boutique hotel, El Blok. Designed by famed Puerto Rican architect Nataniel Fuster, the curvaceous structure is a sight to behold with glass-reinforced concrete panels emulating neighboring coral reefs. The rooftop’s “Sol Set Sundays” is a must for catching the sunset and dancing into the new week under the stars with locals and visitors alike. The lobby’s restaurant, Placita, highlights innovative Puerto Rican dishes and one of my favorite cocktails on the island, the “Sahumerio” with Ron del Barrilito rum, smoked rosemary, and a giant coconut water ice cube to boot, paired perfectly with the world’s best churros.
I’m so grateful to have found my home on Vieques, a strikingly creative, community-oriented, and playful island where a local famously asserted, “We’re all here because we’re not all there.” I feel lucky to have “greenlit” such a meaningful connection to this remarkable enclave, knowing Vieques will always be just a red light away.